Review: Houndstooth is a Dining Destination
There is something exciting happening in Southwest Michigan, and its name is Houndstooth.
Located in Benton Harbor, Houndstooth sits in the midst of a dilapidated downtown and is sandwiched between an out of business storefront and an alleyway. The restaurant is co-owned by siblings James and Cheyenne Galbraith and seed funding was raised through a successful Kickstarter campaign.
The space itself has been intensely rehabbed but it has retained enough original elements to keep it warm, welcoming, and tasteful. A Covid patio in the back extends the relatively small seating plan to accommodate approximately 65 customers at a time. On offer is one of the best dining experiences in the region — including Chicago.
My wife and I visited Houndstooth as a weeknight dinner stop on our way to Grand Rapids. We made a reservation for 8:00 to account for Chicago traffic and the time change. Arriving early, we were asked to wait a few minutes, and for good reason. Despite the late reservation time and small-ish market, Houndstooth was full and there were no tables open to accommodate us. This is generally a good problem to have but it can be a bad one too: the group who was sat next to us waited 40 minutes past their reservation before a table opened (we waited about 15 minutes).
Once seated, the service began to smooth itself out and the meal got underway. Houndstooth’s small menu meant that we could try almost everything, and we took advantage. Of the “Shares” we ordered the B.L.T., Yellowfin Tiradito, and the house-specialty BBQ Carrots. Of the “Snacks” (sides) we ordered the Crunchy Potatoes and Bread & Butter. And from the “Big Plates” we ordered the Slow Steak. We passed on dessert not for lack of desire, but for lack of stomach space.
But first, drinks. To start, we ordered the Ex-Pat Sour and the Snail Mail. Both were decent but not spectacular, and given that we tried two of three available mixed drinks it's fair to say that cocktails are the weak link in Houndstooth’s menu.
The Bread & Butter came out first, and it set the tone for everything else that followed. Two thick slices of toasted Japanese milk bread were topped with a layer of black garlic paste and minced chives. In appearance, it looked like a fat envelope stuffed with cash. In taste, it struck an excellent balance between texture and flavor. And despite being a sharable dish, the Bread & Butter was more than good enough to have to yourself.
Next up was the B.L.T. In this case, the “L” was not lettuce as expected, but lamb XO sauce. A roasted slice of smoked Nuseke bacon was nestled alongside some fresh tomatoes with the XO sauce layered on top. And although more disjointed than a typical BLT, Houndstooth’s version used a simple concept as a skillful showcase of the sibling chefs’ technique, execution, and creativity.
The B.L.T. was followed by the Yellowfin Tiradito, a light dish that evened out the general heaviness of the night. Small pieces of raw yellowfin were plated with puffed sorghum and murasaki potatoes on a bed of aji amarillo sauce. The tiradito was not the flavor explosion that the other dishes were, but it was excellent as a course-between-courses and a palette reset without being too heavy. Additionally, aji amarillo contains a wonderful flavor profile that would do well to be more widely represented in New American cuisine.
The BBQ Carrots were presented next. As our waiter explained, this dish has been on the menu from day one when not many other dishes have. They were magnificent, and all things considered, probably my favorite dish of the evening. Three large, fresh carrots were grill-roasted, which imparted all the charcoal taste one would expect. Accompanied with the carrots were slices of purple onion and mandarin orange. Underneath it all was a well-spiced cumin cream sauce and just enough crunchy, toasted chickpeas. The carrots were perfectly grilled — neither too soft nor too raw — and the accompaniments helped create a dish so unique and so tasteful that I would consider stopping in just for the carrots if I lived any closer.
Between these courses we each ordered wine: one glass of the 2016 Lineshack Cabernet Sauvignon and one glass of the 2018 Stoller Pinot Noir. Both proved to be excellent pairings for the remainder of the meal.
The last two dishes to arrive were the Crunchy Potatoes and the Slow Steak. Briefly, the potatoes were unspectacular, being neither particularly crunchy nor unique. Of all the dishes we tried, this was the one I could have done without.
The Slow Steak, our waiter explained, was inspired by Anthony Bourdain and was cooked using the reverse sear method. The steak came out perfectly medium-rare end-to-end and was seasoned with an earthy, flavorful ancho chili rub. A dollop of whole-grain mustard capped it off. On the side came “elote ribs,” essentially elotes cut lengthwise to make the corn easier to eat. Where the steak was flavorful, the elotes were mild and ultimately detracted from the dish. Despite this shortcoming, the Slow Steak lived up to its position as the most expensive dish on the menu.
By the end of the night, we were both stuffed — and very satisfied. Houndstooth has no business being this good, and yet it is. Even more surprising is that it is executing at such a high level in an area whose population and institutions are a fraction of what they are just down the (figurative) road in Chicago.
What Houndstooth has to offer is more than a great meal. It should be destination dining for anyone living in or traveling through Benton Harbor.
Below from left to right: Ex-Pat Sour, Bread & Butter, B.L.T., Yellowfin Tiradito, BBQ Carrots, Crunchy Potatoes, Slow Steak, an image of the rehabbed bathroom wall.
Details
Stars: Three 1/2 (out of four)
Price: $$$ (out of four)
Style: New American with Asian influences
Atmosphere: Industrial, modern, tasteful, compact
Location:
132 Pipestone St.
Benton Harbor, MI 49022
Website:
https://www.eathoundstooth.com/
Star guide: one - poor, not worth time or money; two - mediocre, worth a visit on occasion; three - very good yet with issues; four - exceptional quality
Price guide: $ - cheap; $$ - affordable; $$$ - special occasion; $$$$ - rare opportunity